A great way to cover stipple texture a four by eight foot sheet of drywall costs around ten dollars apiece. It may also be difficult to maneuver the boards single-handed if And if you have crown molding, you'll likely have to remove it and replace it
Yes, it's still a texture, but it's making a comeback—and it's fairly easy for homeowners to do themselves. Often ound in older homes—pre-popcorn-era—this method involves cleaning and prepping the existing substrate with quick-set drywall mud, applying a bonding agent like joint compound, and then applying a finish compound with a trowel or knife to create a new texture.
Removing popcorn texture from a ceiling is a messy chore but worth the effort if the substrate underneath is in good shape. Here are some tips to take some of the pain out of scraping the stipple texture off your ceiling.
If your ceilings are not at risk for asbestos or lead paint, but they have been painted, it may be near impossible to scrape them, since the porous popcorn material will have soaked it up. To drywall over them may be a better option.
We spray their ceilings with water before scraping to soften the popcorn material doing only small sections at a time so moisture doesn't stay on the surface of the drywall for long.
Many old-house owners want to recapture the history of the home, and a smooth ceiling won't fit the bill. The most important consideration is to make sure the substrate is structurally secure, since adding a wet product could create more weight than the ceiling can handle and cause it to come down. You might need to consult with a contractor before getting started.
If you opt to skim coat, use a quick-set drywall mud, then touch it up with a ready-mixed joint compound. Don't use a ready-mixed material as your base, as it has a higher moisture content and contains silica, which is prone to causing some shrinkage, affecting your final look.
Before you go to all the trouble of prepping the room, try scraping a small area. Try it dry first, then dampen the stipple texture with water and try again. Some texture comes off easily without water, but in most cases wetting is best. If the water doesn't soak in and soften the texture, the ceiling has probably been painted or paint was added to the texture mix. In that case, wetting the ceiling may not help, and you'll have to decide whether you want to tackle a really tough scraping job or choose another way to hide your popcorn ceiling.
Any popcorn ceiling installed before 1980 might contain asbestos—a known cause of lung cancer. Before trying to scrape off any popcorn texture, contact your local health department and ask about getting a sample tested. If the test comes back positive, cover the popcorn with new drywall or tongue-and-groove planks, or hire an asbestos abatement contractor to remove the popcorn.
You might think it's easier to leave light fixtures and ceiling fans in place, but they'll just be in your way and get covered with wet popcorn. Plus, you don't want to accidentally spray water into an electrical fixture.
If you have recessed 'can' lights, stuff news paper or rosin paper inside them to keep them dry. Also, make sure the power to those fixtures is turned off at the circuit breaker panel or fuse box.
For easier scraping and practically no dust, use a garden pump sprayer to mist the ceiling I let it soak in for about 15 minutes before scraping. Only give it a light misting, too much water could damage the drywall or loosen the joint tape. If the texture hasn't softened after 15 minutes or so, spray it again and wait another 10 to 15 minutes.
This is a better option than scraping if you have lead paint or asbestos, because you can encapsulate the harmful substance instead of sending it airborne. Plus, you'll get the smoothest possible finish, if you mud and tape properly. Alternatively, a team of pros will be able to complete the job in no time. Finally, if the ceiling has damage or if you already need to cut into it to reroute electrical you can make large cuts into the existing substrate without worrying about patching, since they'll soon be covered up anyway.
If the texture still hasn't softened, it might be painted, or paint might have been mixed into the texture before application. In either case, water won't easily penetrate. If the texture is painted, you might be able to dry-scrape it first to expose some of the unpainted texture and follow up with wet scraping. If the texture has paint mixed in, you might have to dry-scrape the whole ceiling or cover it up with drywall or T&G boards.
Shut off the power to any electrical junction boxes in the ceiling and cover them with painter's tape to keep the wiring dry when spraying water on the popcorn. Overlap the sides of the junction box with the tape, and then trim around the perimeter with a utility knife, being careful not to nick the wires. Only spray and scrape a small area at a time—about 4 x 4 ft. If you work too large of an area at once, the popcorn might dry before you have time to scrape it off. If that happens, respray the area and wait another 10 to 15 minutes before scraping.
Use a mud pan—the kind for holding joint compound—to catch the wet popcorn before it hits the floor. That way, you're not tracking it all over the place when you walk and move the ladder around. Also, use the edge of the pan to clean off your scraper when it gets loaded up with wet popcorn. A mud pan is available at home centers.
Round off the corners of your scraper—whether it's a wide putty knife or drywall taping knife being careful not to gouge the ceiling and leave you with dozens of ceiling wounds to repair. Use a file, a sander or an electric grinder to do this.
Scraping alone won't leave you with a paint-ready ceiling. You'll probably have small dings and gouges to fix. At a minimum, you'll have to sand the ceiling to get it perfectly smooth before painting. Old out-dated popcorn ceiling are despised by home owners. They're difficult to repair, hard to clean, and catch dust easily but despite all these cons, their popularity exploded beginning in the late 1950s because they made easy work of finishing ceilings and hiding imperfections. There are three popular ways to take on the challenge: scrape, cover with a new layer of drywall, or skim coat with plaster to create a new texture depends on a lot of things, including the age and condition of the substrate (ceiling). We are drywall experts that tell everything a homeowner should know before deciding how to remove their stipple ceiling.
For this method, you'll want to use a 4-inch utility knife or a drywall knife to chip away at the texture and create a smooth surface. You'll probably need to skim it with a thin layer of joint compound to smooth out imperfections, then sand it smooth before repainting
I will cover floors and walls with plastic drop cloths and want use canvas drop cloths because water can soak through. Cleanup is easier with plastic too, because you can just ball it all up when you're done working and throw it in the trash. Leave the plastic in place after scraping to catch the mess you'll make repairing and sanding the ceiling later.
It is necessary to remove all furniture from the room you'll be working in. Scraping stipple is messy work, and you won't want furniture in your way every time you move the ladder around. If moving everything out of the room isn't possible, cluster it and cover it with drop cloths.
Popcorn ceilings were popular with builders and remodeling back in the '60s and '70s. Applying the texture to drywall and plaster ceilings was a quick and easy way to hide imperfections and didn't require any painting ??afterward. But the rough texture catches lots of dust and cobwebs, and it can be a real pain to match if you have cracks or holes in need of patching.
The most common method of popcorn ceiling removal, scraping your ceiling is a messy and slow process, but it's the most cost-effective and can be completed by one person. However, stipple finishes and paint applied before 1979 often contained asbestos and lead, respectively, which could be toxic if sent airborne. If you live in an older home, purchase a home test for lead paint, and consult with an expert about testing for asbestos. If it
tests positive, do not scrape it.
Use ceiling board, it weighs considerably less than standard wall board, go right over the existing stipple ceiling. You'll need to securely screw it into the framing and be skilled at tape and bed work.